CUTTING OUR TIES WITH WORKPLACE FORMALITY

The tie has been staple in men's wardrobes for centuries but in recent years its popularity has waned. Is its death imminent? John Meagher reports

In Ireland, senior civil servants have complained about the dress code of younger members of staff - where T-shirts and hoodies are the garments of choice. And in Britain, as of last month, it is no longer necessary for British civil servants to wear neckties.

Politicians such as Bertie Ahern, Tony Blair and George Bush like to forego the tie for informal meetings and photo opportunities. It was all so different in the recent past, as RTE's four-part documentary on Charles Haughey showed. Formal attire was much loved by the ex-Taoiseach, and he was rarely seen without his expensive Charvet shirts and elegant silk ties.

Ever since the first ties were worn in ancient Egypt and China, they have sent signals about class and status. But it was not until the 17th century that tie mania hit Europe. Louis XIV was impressed with the fabric worn around the necks of soldiers from Croatia (from which 'cravat' is derived) and the tie was cast. It found ready acceptance in Restoration England after the gloom of puritanism, and has been a staple in most western men's wardrobes ever since.

The tie does not have much function, beyond hiding shirt buttons, but its show factor is undeniable, and some ties convey critical information about school, club, regiment or other affiliations. Attitudes are changing, says Dublin designer Nicky Wallace. "Many men see ties as restrictive, and while I don't think the tie will ever die out, they are not seen as essential, as they once were," he says. "Men can look very stylish by teaming a really well-cut suit with a vibrant shirt. Depending on the context, that can look formal. I'm bringing back a soft look with my new designs for men. I'm teaching Irish people how to wear Neopolitan suits with soft cotton tops underneath, maybe a polo neck. That's a good look right now."

Trevor White, publisher of The Dubliner magazine, is fond of wearing suits and ties. "Ties are inherently absurd. They don't make you look better or more interesting, but I quite like wearing a tie. It's becoming less common to wear them now, so you stand out, whereas in the past a tie wearer would not have stood out." White says many people have become disparaging towards the suit and tie. "The contempt is understandable in a way," he says. "It is hard to feel like an individual in a suit, so for somebody who's got a problem with that, it's an easy target." He says he doesn't wear a suit religiously. "Some mornings I'll get up and I'll feel like I don't want to go to the trouble of putting on a suit and tie. I'll want something more casual when I have my scruffy days. I think that's much more acceptable in this country than it is somewhere like New York or London, where you're still expected to wear a suit. That said, if I'm meeting a client I will dress up for it. I wouldn't think of not wearing a tie for such a meeting."

But for many major companies based here, there is no obligation for even senior managers to wear a suit. In Google's European headquarters, based in Dublin, casual clothing is the norm. "It's about freedom of expression," says Google spokesperson Darren Connolly. "We're interested in the talents of the people employed here, not what they wear. If people want to wear suits they can, but they are certainly not told to do so. They tend to wear clothes that they are comfortable in." Managers at Google like to shun the hoodies sported by other employees in favour of a smart shirt. But ties are nowhere to be seen.

Rowan Manahan, author of Where's My Oasis?, the best-selling guidebook to doing the perfect job interview, says ties may not be worn as much today as they were, but it is still necessary for men to wear one when going for a job. "Quite simply, it is de rigueur to be suited and booted at a job interview. You might never have to wear a tie if you got the job, but why leave yourself at a disadvantage in the interview?" he says. "You don't want the interviewer thinking that you couldn't be bothered to dress up for it. Unless you're going for a job in the fashion field, you should conform to a certain look. In business, the basic aim is to look like a newsreader."

Manahan, who runs the Fortify Services consultancy in Dublin, says first impressions are essential for most interviewers. "The right appearance is paramount. Unfortunately, you will be judged on the way you look. It's a little bit like the mating game - external considerations initially count a great deal. In our society, the suit and tie commands respect."

Nicky Wallace believes that the tie will come back into vogue sooner rather than later. "The simple fact is that a really good suit and tie looks great, and can make the wearer stand out. People have taken the casual thing too far. What I absolutely hate to see is a man wearing a hoodie underneath a jacket. That's so passé, and absolutely hideous. And it just looks sloppy."

Those who think ties have had their day should bear in mind that some of the most exciting bands of the decade wouldn't be seen on stage without wearing them. At Oxegen over the weekend, the sartorially elegant American bands Interpol and the Killers displayed a fine line in angular rock and sharp suits. British outfits Franz Ferdinand, the Kaiser Chiefs, the Futureheads and Maximo Park have all embraced the necktie with the sort of gusto that Neil Young gave to the flannel shirt.

"We've always had a strong sense of how we like to dress, and the one thing that unites us is probably the ties," says Interpol guitarist Daniel Kessler. "But I'd dress that way whether I was in a band or not. I think T-shirts and shapeless tops can look so . . . ugly."